The Big Book of Wooden Boat Restoration: Basic Techniques, Maintenance, and Repair
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
The Big Book of Wooden Boat Restoration is the perfect introduction or reference guide for both novice and experienced wooden boat enthusiasts. Author Thomas Larsson, one of Sweden’s most experienced and premier wooden boat restorers, has compiled his knowledge of the craft for readers and placed it in this book. This ultimate guide to restoration contains useful facts and an extensive glossary, accessible to both new hobbyists and longtime boat lovers.
Also within this book are chapters on boat care, including winter maintenance, racing, finishing, and stripping. Additionally, there is updated information on boat building, gluing, and tools. The most extensive part of this book consists of chapters that describe the detailed clean repair of wooden boats—everything from plug accession and bonding to changing socks and bottom engine installation.
Larsson includes a history of boat building and provides a nice glimpse of different wooden boats with more than two hundred sketches and photos in both color and black-and-white. He explains how staying on top of maintenance keeps a unique fleet of wooden boats alive. With practical instructions and fact boxes with advice and tips, this book will teach you all about maintenance: surface treatment, scraping the hull, equipping the boat in the spring, and looking after it in the winter. Also included are tips on buying a boat, installing an engine, and more.
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scraped off and areas of bare wood are fixed with yacht primer. Thin antifouling can be painted over for many years without the layers becoming too thick. Self polishing antifouling can create a too-thick layer, which must then be sanded before recoating with new bottom paint. PAINTING TOPSIDE AND DECK Generally speaking, the shinier result you want when it comes to painting and varnishing, the more labor is needed, and the more durable, hardier paints are needed, which in turn creates a higher
Self-tapping screws. Examples of self-tapping screw brands are Spax and Grabber. The screw has a cut in the lead and stronger pitch (longer in between the threads). It is fully threaded or partly threaded, but the shaft is not wider than the core. It is suitable for screwing plywood decks; the screw must not be threaded to the piece that is to be screwed down to obtain good contraction. Partly threaded stainless steel decking screws are an option that have been marketed in recent years. We often
frames at the end point of the floors. 3 Old crack. 4 Laminated ribs that have come apart and are spliced with a new bottom, and as a precaution, have been fastened with nuts and bolts to avoid coming apart again. FIGURE 88 } Various joints on sawn frames. 1 The most common version with staggering joints that should be bolted in three places. 2 Hooked scarf joint. 3 Double-sawn frame where the difficulty of getting the grains to comply with the bend is offset by making a double frame with
a sturdy U-beam. 8 Adjust the frame to the right angle. Then angle the horizontal flange on the frame so that it will be tight against the planking. The angles are measured with the sliding T-bevel from the detached frame or template made from the boat. At amidships, the angle is relatively straight (90°), but at the tapering of the boat, the angle is significant. Almost all shipyards except for Holm’s Yacht Yard turned the standing flange against the ends (Knut Holm often did the opposite).
cracking. I like to varnish it with old varnish when it’s left for more than a few days. Linseed oil is not enough; it does not prevent moisture from escaping. If the oak is too dry, it can cause major problems. A dry oak plank suitable for carpentry (12% moisture content) absorbs water and, after one season’s use, will end up with a 20% moisture content. The swelling of oak in that moisture range is 1.5–2.5%. A 12-inch-(30-cm-) wide keel plank will increase its width by about �” (6 mm). If the