Knit Socks!: 17 Classic Patterns for Cozy Feet
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In this best-selling knitting guide, Betsy Lee McCarthy offers 17 classic sock patterns guaranteed to keep your feet stylishly warm. Choosing the right material for your project is made easy with plenty of helpful advice on the qualities of different yarns, including what feels best, what holds its shape, and what really lasts. You can also take advantage of fiber substitution charts and make your own creative variations on these timeless patterns. Slip your toes into one comfortable and cozy knit masterpiece after another.
slack accidentally created when changing from one needle to another, no one should be able to tell what type of needles you used. For a top-down sock, the same steps are followed in the same order regardless of the needles used. It's time for you to admire your new sock! To the Task My father told me many years ago that if a person could read, there was little that person couldn't do. I believed him then and attempted many things I might not have otherwise thought I could do. So, gather
11: Slip 1, P12, P2tog, P1, leaving 0 sts unworked. Row 12: Slip 1, K13, ssk, K1, leaving 0 sts unworked. You now have 16 heel stitches. Break off cc1, leaving a tail for weaving in. PICKING UP STITCHES FOR HEEL GUSSET NOTE: For techniques, see Secrets for Tight, Smooth Gussets, pages 26–29. SETUP Attach mc. With the heel stitch needle, pick up and knit 14 stitches along the right side of the heel flap. This is Needle 1. Needle 2: Knit 14 stitches. Needle 3: Knit 14 stitches. Using an
the old to prevent holes. • One of the Double Time sock models shows the cc and mc are reversed in both leg and foot sections. You may want to make your own changes. Pattern Stitches (see charts, page 102) Rhythm (multiple of 6 stitches) Rounds 1 and 2: Knit to end of each needle. Round 3: K1, *slip 1, K2; repeat from * ending with slip 1, K1. Round 4: P1, *slip 1, P2; repeat from * ending with slip 1, P1. Double Time (multiple of 6 stitches) Rounds 1 and 2: Using mc, knit to end of each
needle. (See drawing at top, facing page.) 2. Next, move the second stitch on the bottom needle to the top needle, stretching out the loop out a bit. (This is the last cast-on stitch, and contains the working yarn, so it is a live stitch and therefore can be stretched.) Alternatively, you can use a crochet hook to pull this stitch up through the new first stitch and place it on the top needle. 3. Now that the join is accomplished, one more step must be taken here to be ready to work in the
chain selvage stitches created (one for every two rows worked). You do this by going down into the outside loop of each stitch, under a whole stitch. Weaving in Loose Ends Weave the old yarn on the diagonal forward to where the new yarn is worked, and weave the new yarn on the diagonal back to where the old yarn was worked. Weave them into the back of purl bumps, a few stitches one way, then turn and go back into a few purl bumps in the other direction, and then turn again and tuck them into a