In the Greene & Greene Style: Projects and Details for the Woodworker

In the Greene & Greene Style: Projects and Details for the Woodworker

Darrell Peart

Language: English

Pages: 128

ISBN: 1610351800

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub


Legendary architects and designers Charles and Henry Greene created a uniquely American style in the Arts & Crafts tradition, and this book combines a detailed understanding of their design aesthetic with specific shop instructions for re-creating their works. Filled with step-by-step instructions, extensive illustrations, and full-color photographs, the book features several full projects for making replica Greene & Greene furniture complete with authentic details such as ebony plugs and splines, waterfall legs, and curved drawer pulls. Showing today's woodworkers precisely how the Greenes achieved their unique designs, ""In the Style of Greene & Greene"" also includes valuable advice on incorporating Arts & Crafts elements into new designs.

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the pulling action will naturally offer the least chance of binding. A more perfect marriage of form and function would be difficult to find. The arched pull presents the world with a sleek form, while providing full uncompromising function. The arched pull, in its many variations, was used on several original Greene & Greene designs. Built-in Sideboard, David B. Gamble House, 1908–09. Courtesy of the Gamble House. Photo by Tom Moore. Built in Sideboard, David B. Gamble House, 1908–09.

strap in position, slide it back and forth letting the 80-grit sandpaper remove material from the overhang until it ceases to remove anything. The measured paper should have allowed the sandpaper to remove precisely the amount of material to form a perfect fit. If a small gap appears (too much material removed) you may have placed too much pressure on the topside of the strap. Even sanding pressure should be given on the overhang of the strap where it rests on the face of the base. 26.

the pull to the drawer front. Ebony Bars Machine the ebony bar stock in long square lengths about 1/64" oversize in width. Using 150-grit sandpaper, impart a slight “pillow” shape on the face side. Ease the edges very slightly, and then sand through the grits until 600 is reached. Buff the face on a buffing wheel with white rouge. Cut each bar to length, about 1/64" longer than the individual holes. Slightly ease the just cut edge with 320-grit through 600-grit sandpaper, and then take to the

chuck. Sand the exposed portion, then reverse the dowel, wrap the other end, and sand again. Once the bit size is determined, secure the block in the boring fixture with the rounded corners facing in and a piece of ¼" material underneath for back up. Position and clamp the fixture under the bit so the centerline on the block registers with the center point of the bit. Now bore the hole. After drilling, remove the ¼" material and blow the area out, then reposition the backup piece for the next

of each end face. Blend the bevel to match the 1⁄8" radius round over of the two face edges with a flapping motion backed up with your thumb. Finish sanding to 220-grit. 8. Blend the bevel to match the 1⁄8" radius. 9. Apply glue to the interior of the hole in the block. 10. Slide the first block onto the dowel. 11. Place the second block on the dowel. Glue up First, make a spacer ½" thick (distance block is from end of dowel) x 2½" long (distance between the blocks) for

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